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Post by ponchokel on Jan 10, 2017 11:25:05 GMT -5
Well I am learning, Again...LOL
Apparently when breaking in a new cam with "dual springs" you should remove the inner spring first, set all the lash, then break in your cam for a good 30 minutes, then put back in the inner springs, set it again, change oil and filter then you can drive.
What a PITA..oh well..Applies to hydraulic flat tappets only. If it's a solid roller with roller lifters you just do the normal break in procedure.
I am sure this is nothing new to you guys.
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Post by ponchokel on Jan 12, 2017 22:54:45 GMT -5
More reading on cam in break in procedures. So after initial break in with outer springs only, repeat the break in time with inner springs installed for another 30 minutes give or take. Then your Good to GO...Then you have some guys just break them in with both springs and hope they don't wipe the lobes off...LOL...I think I will stick too Cam Manufacture procedures and play it safe.
Now just to figure out how NOT too Upset my Neighbors when I am doing all this "Engine Breaking in time" outside in my back yard. LOL..I hear the Bylaw coming now?
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Post by MERSEY on May 21, 2017 18:42:14 GMT -5
Rev. Kelco...... I'm in the process of having my 454 rebuilt....the one that ate some pushrods a couple summers ago. The engine builder I'm dealing with has indicated that for flat tappet cams that do not have a radical lift or extremely high valve spring pressures he does not remove the inner spring. He sets the valve lash to "ZERO" and runs the engine for 20 min or so at 2000RPM or more and then sets the preload to 1/4 turn past zero and then runs the engine for another 20 minutes and then changes the oil. Just something to consider....
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Post by henrystoys on May 22, 2017 9:34:48 GMT -5
With all the engines I have built I break them in the way I drive them, including our drag engines and have never had any issues with cam loss. When you get into high lift cams and very high valve spring pressures then you have to use lower tension springs for break in. My comments are not meant to discourage you from using the procedure that you feel is best.
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Post by MERSEY on Jun 8, 2017 16:55:04 GMT -5
With all the engines I have built I break them in the way I drive them, including our drag engines and have never had any issues with cam loss. When you get into high lift cams and very high valve spring pressures then you have to use lower tension springs for break in. My comments are not meant to discourage you from using the procedure that you feel is best. Henry....."you break them in the way you drive them". From a technical perspective, what exactly does that mean? - You bolt the engine together, drop it in the car and then just hit the road?
- You break in the cam running the engine at the highest RPM level that you intend to hit with the engine?
- You break in the cam varying the RPM between the lowest and highest RPM level you intend to run the engine at?
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Post by Pressedham on Jun 8, 2017 19:20:03 GMT -5
Its not only the cam but ring clearances. I usually do three break-ins at 2000 rpm for ten minutes. Let engine cool between run ins. Has worked on all my engines.
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Post by henrystoys on Jun 10, 2017 9:28:04 GMT -5
For race engines in the past it was A". Set it up to start, set timing, run about 1200 RPM, check all is well then go run. Nova ran low 12's with a stock 030 over 350, all stock type rotating assembly, stock heads with 3 angle valve job, cast iron intake and stock type Q-Jet. Powerglide with a 208 1st gear and a 513 R&P.
For street engines I run them up to 2000 for a bit, not extremely long while checking out for leaks etc and have never lost a cam.
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